vendredi 3 octobre 2014

Why Marques Almeida for Topshop is this season's most wanted collaboration




Marta Marques (left) and Paulo Almeida greet the audience after the Marques Almeida collection during London fashion week SS15 Photograph: Jack Taylor/AFP/Getty Images
The news that Marques Almeida has collaborated on a collection for Topshop might not have the name-in-lights hype of, say, Christopher Kane, but the in-the-know will have definitely have Thursday 9 October diarised. Marques Almeida is, you see, a label loved by fashion’s cool crowd – it has made ripped, frayed and oversized denim the unlikely trend of 2014, with skinny jeans no longer the stylish choice.



Marques Almeida
A Marques Almeida for Topshop vest

See the front row at its spring/summer show – a sea of bright young things in MA’s signature rips. Those wearing jeans without the requisite distress would have been quite out of place. It’s a look that the duo behind the label – Portuguese couple MartaMarques and Paulo Almeida, two of the nicest people in fashion – have put into the Topshop collection, with prices starting at £30. There’s a straight denim shift dress with the MA logo across the chest, an oversized denim parka and – clearly the piece set to sell out at £70 – jeans with rips on the upper thighs. That’s bound to appeal to those bored of showing their knees through their denim (Kanye West, we mean you).



Marques Almeida
Marques Almeida parka for Topshop. Photograph: Topshop

Marques Almeida is an example of a slow-burn success in London fashion – not the stratospheric rise of say, Jonathan Anderson, but quietly building a loyal following of twentysomethings similarly obsessed with 90s fashion. After graduating from Central Saint Martins, the duo started in 2011 with a small collection of – you guessed it – denim, shown as part of Fashion East.
It sold into Opening Ceremony stores and, with attainable price points in designer fashion terms (nothing over £500), it has positioned itself into a niche that takes a zeitgeist-y reference but makes it modern. Add the likes of Rita Ora and Rihanna wearing their clothes (very recognisable, thanks to those rips) and its fate as a favoured label of the in-crowd was sealed.
There are plenty of collaborations to get excited about over the next couple of months (Alexander Wang for H&M, Mary Katrantzou for Adidas) but in certain circles it has long been decided that Marques Almeida for Topshop is the big one.

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Fashion's billionaires club: the richest people you've never heard of



Do Won Chang and wife Jin Sook (centre and right)

Fast fashion is the way most of us buy into a trend – millions of us, in fact. The proceeds all end up in someone’s pocket, of course, but the actual humans behind the brands tend to stay out of the limelight – busy counting their profit, perhaps. Forbes, however, has released the latest American Billionaires List (dollars not pounds but still), and it numbers a fair few faces from fashion. Here are the fashion billionaires you’ve never heard of, behind the high-street brands you most certainly have.

Do Won and Jin Sook Chang

Relatively new to the UK high street, the Elle Woods pink of the Forever 21 bag is becoming a familiar sight. The chain is owned by a husband-and-wife team, Korean-Americans Do Won and Jin Sook Chang, with daughters Esther and Linder in the business too. Together they earned £3.21bn this year – not bad considering that dresses in their shops go for under £15 a pop. That’s a lot of pops.


Retail mogul Leslie Wexner, right, and his wife Abigail tour the Transfigurations exhibit at the Wexner Center for the Arts Friday, Sept. 19, 2014
Leslie Wexner with his wife Abigail. Photograph: Jay LaPrete/AP

Leslie Wexner

The owner of Victoria’s Secret could play the granddad in the Werther’s Original advert – that’s how wholesome he appears. His looks contrast somewhat against a brand that makes its money from images of young women in underwear, but the 77-year-old clearly knows sex sells. He bought Victoria’s Secret for $1m (£62,000) in 1982 and he’s now worth £3.9bn.


Doris and Don Fisher in front of the first Gap store in San Francisco, 1969
Doris and Don Fisher in front of the first Gap store in San Francisco, 1969. Photograph: San Francisco Chronicle/Corbis

Doris Fisher

The matriarch of Gap, Fisher is also an art buff – with an extensive collection of works by 60s American greats such as Andy Warhol, Roy Lichenstein and Chuck Close. Her art haul is almost as valuable as her work with Gap, and will be available for all to see when a wing of the San Francisco Museum of Art opens in 2016. She is worth nearly £2bn, while her three sons combined are worth £4.46bn.


Richard A. Hayne, founder and chairman of Urban Outfitters jokes with employees inside a store in Philadelphia in 2006
Richard A Hayne, founder and chairman of Urban Outfitters jokes with employees in a store in Philadelphia in 2006. Photograph: George Widman/Associated Press

Richard Hayne

In his spare time, Hayne makes cheese in the Doe Run Dairy Farm in Pennsylvania. As the CEO of Urban Outfitters, however, he’s more often found dealing with production of slogan T-shirts than curds. The youth-focused high-street chain, in the UK since the late 90s, does swift business selling hipster-lite clothing and paraphenalia. Hayne earned £0.95bn – or $1.54bn – last year.



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