The news that Marques Almeida has collaborated on a collection for Topshop might not have the name-in-lights hype of, say, Christopher Kane, but the in-the-know will have definitely have Thursday 9 October diarised. Marques Almeida is, you see, a label loved by fashion’s cool crowd – it has made ripped, frayed and oversized denim the unlikely trend of 2014, with skinny jeans no longer the stylish choice.
See the front row at its spring/summer show – a sea of bright young things in MA’s signature rips. Those wearing jeans without the requisite distress would have been quite out of place. It’s a look that the duo behind the label – Portuguese couple MartaMarques and Paulo Almeida, two of the nicest people in fashion – have put into the Topshop collection, with prices starting at £30. There’s a straight denim shift dress with the MA logo across the chest, an oversized denim parka and – clearly the piece set to sell out at £70 – jeans with rips on the upper thighs. That’s bound to appeal to those bored of showing their knees through their denim (Kanye West, we mean you).
Marques Almeida is an example of a slow-burn success in London fashion – not the stratospheric rise of say, Jonathan Anderson, but quietly building a loyal following of twentysomethings similarly obsessed with 90s fashion. After graduating from Central Saint Martins, the duo started in 2011 with a small collection of – you guessed it – denim, shown as part of Fashion East.
It sold into Opening Ceremony stores and, with attainable price points in designer fashion terms (nothing over £500), it has positioned itself into a niche that takes a zeitgeist-y reference but makes it modern. Add the likes of Rita Ora and Rihanna wearing their clothes (very recognisable, thanks to those rips) and its fate as a favoured label of the in-crowd was sealed.
There are plenty of collaborations to get excited about over the next couple of months (Alexander Wang for H&M, Mary Katrantzou for Adidas) but in certain circles it has long been decided that Marques Almeida for Topshop is the big one.
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